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The historic centre of Vernon (1)
"It is a
small city located at the limit of the Beauvais country and Normandy,
in the former Vexin region. The river seine lined with willows and poplars
flows below it; it is crowned with forest.
Since then, unfortunately, the city was severely hit by 1940 and 1944 bombings but it managed to live through the 20th century, prospering and keeping a large part of its historic treasures. We invite you to stroll along its streets to evoke its history and enjoy some of its former atmosphere. The tour begins on the Town Hall square, in front of Our Lady Collegiate church and a beautiful 15th c. old house. This is exactly the borderline between the old part of town and the areas that were destroyed in 1940-44.
It is interesting to compare this building and the next ones. Here is a remnant of medieval town-planning: in the shopping streets, such as the one here, called Grand Rue (High street) now rue Carnot, there were narrow houses huddled together, with a shop in front, and one or two (very dark) rooms behind. These houses were
hardly more than 4 or 5 meters wide: as a matter of fact, in the Middle
Ages, the 'standard' beams used for building, the ones yielded by 100
year-old oaks, were about 4 or 5 meters long. However rich merchants,
instead of living in the smaller houses along the street, had beautiful
dwellings, like the one at the corner, located in busy or prestigious
crossroads (such as here with the church). Another rich merchant's house
will be seen later at the crossing of the High Street and Bridge Street. (More about
Vernon's half-timbered houses, here)
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Here, turn right into Rue Malot, more a lane than a street. Walk on a few steps and turn around: this narrow street, these old houses and the church in the back, does not all this make you think of some pages of Jude the Obscure by Thomas Hardy or pages by Balzac, the novelist of French provincial life? Listen to him describing Guérande (Southern Britanny, near Nantes), but this could also apply to this very street: "The streets look how they used to be 400 years ago This street leads to a postern-gate above which a clump of trees is growing. A poet, a painter will remain seated there enjoying the deep silence that reigns under the vault of the postern where the bustle of the city is not heard.[ ] it is impossible to walk here without thinking about the habits and manners of the past; every stone reminds you of it."
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